Thursday, February 18, 2016

Thinking about Thinking

I feel like I recently underwent a 12 hour stint that was quietly emblematic of my life these days.
I put on heels and stuffed my pockets with business cards and went to a networking event and talked to other people in heels carrying business cards about reciprocity and judge appointments, and I did my best not to steer the conversation towards books and bicycles. Went to the bar and ducked into a bathroom to stuff my lawyer clothes into my backpack and to pull on my punk rock clothes. Found my friends and talked about bicycles and booze and tried not to steer the conversation towards business cards or what work meant about me these days. Went to a show and smashed into a bunch of strangers while dancing around like I was still 17, and I didn't think about work OR bicycles at all for several hours. Went home and drank a glass of milk because there is still a lot of Lent left to go and I was thinking about books again. Who knows which topic my brain was focusing on next, but in the insufficient amount of sleep that followed, I dreamed that I was unintentionally rude to the Pope and my friends were angry with me. When the alarm went off, I stumbled out in mismatched socks and went for a run with my moral sounding-board and we talked about the intersection of femininity and professionalism in modern-day romance. While the dog and I walked back, I encountered a new friend on the sidewalk. I was thinking about business cards and love and booze and music and I thought I might have looked like I'd been crying or something, so I just talked awkwardly to her dog. Got home and ate some things and stared at nothing. Shook it off, put heels in my backpack and dry shampoo in my hair and got back on my bicycle to go to work.

- I'm not usually very good at catching up with what I'm thinking about.
- Christ, I'm awkward before coffee.
- Whoever invented dry shampoo changed my life.

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Books 2014

So... 2014.  Not as many books as I might have hoped considering law school is over, but I did read War and Peace, so that's gotta count for at least +8, am I right?
21 books, 9,068 pages.  Average rating was 3.2, which is pretty high for me!  I may have set a personal record of books I thought actually merited a 4 or 5 rating this year.  (Unfortunately a couple duds dragged the rating averages down.)

The Marriage Plot, Jeffrey Eugenides.  406 pages.  4
This book gets middling reviews from most of its readers, but I really loved it.  I enjoyed Middlesex quite a bit, and the premise of this one spoke to me, so I was ready to give Eugenides some more bedside table time.  In the early 1980s, the three corners of a love triangle graduate from Brown (go Brown!) and proceed to try to grow up.  They are too smart for their respective life choices and probably terrible for each other, as lovers or otherwise.  They are as impressionable as they are smart, and they each try to interpret and apply to their own lives a couple intriguing themes.  First up, the marriage plot at the heart of classic English literature.  Second, the ludicrous question-everything mindset of mid-eighties academia (the semiotics class depiction is AMAZING).  And, of course, the role of old fashioned God in new-fashioned life. 
They were all very familiar characters to me.  Madeleine, the bibliophile with her privileged background who never quite catches onto the mess she’s part of.  Mitchell, the would-be scholar who is probably using his obsession for girls out of his league as a defense mechanism and is definitely using religion as such.  Leonard, who is the first depiction of bipolarism in literature that I’ve ever really bought. 
Like Middlesex, it didn’t have the resolution I was hoping for.  It didn’t delve into any one character and make them reanalyze themselves or their choices or the greater plot that they are part of.  But I bought it and I cared about them and it made me think.

The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes (book 3), Arthur Conan Doyle. 339 pages. 3
Some good ones (Speckled Band) and some duds (Identity.) All in all, fun to listen to during a road trip.

Sherlock Holmes, the Sign of Four, Arthur Conan Doyle.  129 pages.  2
Meh.  Fun to watch Sherlock shoot cocaine because he’s bored and Watson try to cheer him up with a nice freaky mystery.  The mystery itself was just alright.

The Satanic Verses, Salman Rushdie.  561 pages. 5
Several years ago, this was on the coffee table in a motel that mom and I stayed at in Taos, and I read the first 4 or 5 pages while we were waiting to check in.  Two Indian actors fall out of the sky after a commercial airliner is blown up by terrorists.  Between the explosion and landing, they turn into an angel and a devil.  That was as far as I got before finding my motel room and going out for Mexican food, and I’m glad it took me a couple years to pick it up again. 
This book is intense.  It is longer than it seems, and there is very little to tie together the myriad of plots and characters, many of which don’t overlap at all in time or space.  Or realities.  I am a fan of that literary taste – blending myth and fiction and even a little bit of straight up history – but this one was really hard.  By way of reference, I think I blew through One Hundred Years of Solitude, which I compare to this one only for narrative style, in about four days.  This one took me more than three months.  The guy is a master writer obviously, and I could have read any one scene stand-alone and still really enjoyed and gotten a lot out of the book.  (The city of sand is oh-my-god-amazing.)   I don’t have great character retention though, so I wound up doing a lot of re-reading to try to get more out of it.
Bottom line is it is a pretty masterful classic, and it deserves recognition outside of the controversy Rushdie decided to take on by writing a heretical text in the age of radical Islam.  Nous sommes tous Charlie.

The Virgin Suicides, Jeffrey Eugenides. 249 pages.  4
The story of the five doomed Lisbon sisters as told by the neighborhood boys who never got over them.  It carries a “cult classic” status symbol for what ultimately is a strange suburban mythology.  The girls are the center of the story, but it’s told from the perspective of boys with binoculars aimed at bedroom windows.  The feminine mystery wrapped in pubescent tragedy wrapped in Eugenides’s prose.
“Chucking her under the chin, he said, ‘What are you doing here, honey? You're not even old enough to know how bad life gets.’
And it was then Cecilia gave orally what was to be her only form of suicide note, and a useless one at that, because she was going to live: ‘Obviously, Doctor,’ she said, "you've never been a thirteen-year-old girl.’” 
World War Z, Max Brooks.  342 pages.  5
In a year where I read War and Peace, I’m a little bit ashamed to give a zombie book a five.  I’m doing it anyway.
Humanity has recently squeaked away from extinction – the zombie apocalypse came and it very nearly took us out.  Sometime later, people who played roles in pivotal points in the outbreak and epidemic – and ultimately in the combination of science and combat that saved the species – give interviews.
Each voice is believable.  Each situation is believable.  This is especially amazing considering the breadth of the stories.  This is a collective narrative history of a global reaction to disaster.  How would a blind Buddhist gardener respond to the zombie apocalypse?  How about the downed pilot who is relying on survival skills and pirate radio to get out of a swamp without losing her mind?  (Or her brains amirite??)  How about the medical community tasked with coming up with an epidemiological response in rural China?  How would American military tactics respond to an enemy that is inherently incapable of tactics?  How would reality TV evolve?
The language is easy and accessible.  Each interview is a really engaging short story.  Ultimately, it is a really quick read, which was its principal downside as far as I was concerned.  I really enjoyed it.  (This is the one Brendan and I spent so much time geeking out over.)

Batman: Year One, Frank Miller.  144 pages.  3
Present from Alec after my Batman-themed bachelorette party.  The first year of the Dark Knight’s caped crusade.  Much of it from Jim Gordon’s perspective.  In point of fact, Jim Gordon is probably the protagonist.  That’s cool.  Watching Batman figure out the ropes of vigilanteism was also cool.  Frank Miller is predictably dark.

American Short Story Masterpieces, Edited by Clarence C. Strowbridge. 256 pages.  3
Nathaniel Hawthorne to John Cheever to Edgar Allan Poe.  Some stronger than others.  Favorites for me were Faulkner’s “Dry September” and Eudora Welty’s “A Worn Path.”  Probably means I like depressing short stories.

Haroun and the Sea of Stories, Salman Rushdie. 224 pages.  5
Having been so solidly taken with Satanic Verses, I figured why wait till next year for another Rushdie?  Brian and I read this one out loud together.  A champion storyteller has lost his skill, so he and his son embark on a quest to release the seas of story inspiration from their imprisonment.
Part political satire, part children's fantasy, with Rushdie's amazing word-play.  It is delightful.  I can’t come up with a better adjective.

The Night Circus, Erin Morgenstern. 387 pages.  2.5
A lifelong duel between two young magicians who happen to be in love with each other unfolds in the world of a magic circus.  Everything cool about the book was in that sentence.  The setting is thrilling, if fantastical is your cup of tea.  The characters are interesting enough that you’re glad when they reappear – the contortionist who knows more than she’s letting on, the strange twins with their strange powers, etc.  The duel plot is pretty flat.  The love story is flatter.  I’m not much one for fantasy, but even that aside, I wasn’t really taken with this book.

The Idiot, Fyodor Dostoyevsky (Constance Garnett translation).  720 pages.  4
This was my third Dostoyevsky, and I’m kind of amazed it took me as long as it did to get to it.  Myshkin is our naïve and delicate protagonist, recently returned to Russia from a sanatorium in Switzerland where he has been treated for debilitating epilepsy.  The irrationality and calculating cruelty of 19th century Moscow high society do a quick number on the saintly Myshkin, and the story is not a happy one.
Epilepsy as a theme was interesting – how the invalid get a special pass in society, but only to a second class citizenship.  Everybody assumes Myshkin is a simpleton and so is weirdly straightforward with him about their goings on.  So while Myshkin actually has the clearest view of the gross underbelly of society, nobody ever believes him or takes him seriously.
Nastasya is by far the most interesting female character I have ever picked up in my tour of the Russian greats.  Dostoyevsky doesn’t pull punches with love and sex and violence and mental instability on this one. 
Book one is absolutely amazing.  If it had ended there, I’d give it a 5.  I got a little bored with the middle bits, and especially with Aglaya, the other lady in Myshkin’s love triangle.  All in all, though, it was a fantastic read.

The Martian, Andy Weir. 369 pages. 4
This book was the most fun I had reading all year.  Our protagonist, astronaut Mark Watney, is accidentally left behind during the first manned mission to Mars.  In what is basically Robinson Crusoe in space, he has to try to survive until the next mission can come pick him up, and what we are reading is his journal.
The science is accessible, the plot is exciting, the voice is HILARIOUS.  Watney was originally selected to the first Martian crew because of his skill set – he’s a mechanical engineer and a botanist, both of which come in very handy – and because NASA figured his sense of humor and general optimism would be good for a crew who has to spend a couple years together in tightly enclosed spaces.  You never get tired of listening to him!
“I can't wait till I have grandchildren. “When I was younger, I had to walk to the rim of a crater. Uphill! In an EVA suit! On Mars, ya little shit! Ya hear me? Mars!””

Divergent, Veronica Roth.  487 pages. 1
Most years I read at least one sorta crap young adult novel, and this year it was the smash hit Divergent, recently turned into a blockbuster movie bla bla bla.  I picked it up and finished it over the course of a plane flight.  It’s crap with crap characters and a crap plot, but at least kids are reading now or something, and the female protagonist learns how to punch people and stuff.

Dune, Frank Herbert. 604 pages. 3
Would you believe I’d never read this?  Weird, right?
The main character is probably the super hostile desert planet Arrakis, which Herbert clearly spent a LOT of time working on.  He’s got the barbaric nomadic tribes with the theocratic infrastructures all the way up to the tech that allows science and spaceships to play key roles.  Enter family Altreides.  We spend two hundred pages learning about how they are going to be screwed before they get screwed.  Then our protagonists run off into the desert to play Lawrence of Arabia to the barbarians.  A few hundred pages of prophecy and religion meeting outerspace action adventures, then an anticlimactic finale before (I’ve been told) another eight books get published and the crazy meter goes to eleven.
I am not a big sci-fi fan, though I do like books that read more like mythology, so there’s that.  Certain plot points seemed kind of rushed and halfhazard to me, and I got pretty tired of Herbert trying to convince us that no, seriously, this time Paul’s life is actually at risk, and it’s the most dangerous thing he’s ever done, and last chapter was just a dress rehearsal.  Still, the desert planet descriptions were awesome, and I have worked “fear is the mind-killer” into my daily (or at least weekly) lexicon.

The Unconsoled, Kazuo Ishiguro. 535 pages. 2
A renowned pianist finds himself in a city he can’t quite name preparing for a concert he can’t quite remember agreeing to perform and interacting with a number of people he can’t quite recognize.  Everyone he encounters expects something from him but are a little too polite to straight up ask him, and he can never quite get right what he is expected to do.  The “plot,” such as it is, is generally described as “dreamlike.”  Understatement.  This book is the best depiction of the rationalizing that a brain mid-dream undergoes.  That said, I spent the whole time trying to make sense out of it, and ultimately getting frustrated.
It is undeniably well-written, just not my taste.  I really wanted to like it, but picking it up always felt like a chore.

Angle of Repose, Wallace Stegner. 569 pages. 4
A retired professor, crippled by a bone disease that leaves him wheelchair-bound and abandoned by his wife, decides that the best use of his last years of life is to look to the past, writing the biography of his grandmother, “a Victorian gentlewoman in the far west.”  The novel itself alternates between the 1890’s and the 1970’s, between the life of grandmother and grandson.  It hits all the big points of love and betrayal and How the West was Won and generational gaps in interpretations of morality.

Let the Northern Lights Erase Your Name, Vendela Vida. 226 pages. 2
On the day of her father’s funeral, our heroine Clarissa discovers that the man was not, in fact, her father.  She ditches her life and leaves for Lapland to figure things out.
The book is easy, and the characters are interesting enough.  Clarissa gets a lot wrong and hurts a lot of people.  Writing that kind of a protagonist is gutsy. 
Still, nothing else ever came together.  The dialogue was very stilted.  At some point I decided that Vida had two or three really clear interactions set up in her mind and was trying to just come up with enough of a plot to get Clarissa from one to the next.  It felt workshoppy.

While I Was Gone, Sue Miller. 304 pages. 3
I guess my theme this year was people running away from their lives into their pasts.  After an old housemate from her hippy days in Cambridge suddenly reappears in her life, our protagonist Jo starts to lose her grip on the present.  The plot follows her through both time periods, the young and would-be free spirit living in a communal house in the 60s and the middle-aged veterinarian married to a pastor in suburbia twenty some years later.  There’s a bit of a murder mystery in there, but that’s kind of not the point of the book and frankly I thought it cheapened the whole thing.
The interesting part was watching Jo become more and more of a complex character.  She starts out intelligent and engaging and then becomes almost conniving as she considers the many versions of herself that she has played over the years.  She’s got a proclivity to run away from her life, but it’s never totally clear what’s chasing her.  She’s awfully self-aware for such a flawed character, and that alone kept me turning pages.

Blackout, Connie Willis. 512 pages. 1
This book is terrible. And at five hundred plus pages, it is too long to get away with it. 
After the advent of time travel, “historians” as a profession stop reading and writing history and start visiting it. Our three heroes all travel back to World War II Britain to do some history sight-seeing: Mike poses as an American journalist writing a story about coastal preparation, Polly as a shop-girl in London during the blitz, and Merope as a maid/babysitter of hoodlum evacuee children.
For a five hundred plus page book, Willis never decided what she wanted to write about. Not character development, that’s for sure. The three are virtually indistinguishable, with no notable personalities or even backstories. Not World War II itself! Oh, the Battle of Britain is going on over her head? Let’s describe what a pain in the butt these kids are and totally ignore the firefight! Certainly not a “thrilling race against time,” as the back of the book will have you believe. 
At the end of the day, Willis seems to have a weird literary fetish for almosts. The vast majority of these five hundred plus pages are spent describing the near misses the characters have in trying to get where they need to go. Seriously, it’s weird. For example, there are several chapters devoted to Polly’s going to the countryside to try to find Merope and barely missing her and also barely missing the people who know where she is and also barely missing trains. Several chapters are devoted to Mike’s trying to get where he needs to go and barely missing the bus and barely missing the guy with the car and barely missing the fleet of boats all of which would have worked.

Then you finish the book on a cliffhanger in the hopes that you’ll pick up the next five hundred f---ing plus page sequel to figure out if they ever make it back to the present. Screw you, Willis. Were you paid by the page or something? I’ll just read the Wikipedia article instead. Actually, I won’t because I really don’t care anymore.

This is How You Lose Her, Junot Diaz. 213 pages. 3
A series of stories about Dominican-Americans and love and loss and also a lot of sex.  It’s no Oscar Wao, but the characters are pretty great.

War and Peace, Leo Tolstoy.  1492 pages.  (WHUT UP NOW).  3.5
How do you even write a review of a book like this?
I have been putting this one off a while because it’s such a behemoth of a novel, and I really expected it to be harder than it was.  The war scenes are pretty exciting, and the soap opera peace scenes are pretty salacious.  The big characters are all great.  Andrei is basically the same character as Levin from Anna Karenina only with war to deal with, and I liked this iteration just as much.  Natasha’s no Nastasya from The Idiot, but she’s a pretty complex and exciting little Russian literature heroine.  And then there’s Pierre, who is such fun to watch grow into himself.
If there hadn’t been an epilogue, I’d give it a flat 4.  As it was, there was.  The epilogue had two parts.  The first half was basically Tolstoy undoing everything interesting that made Natasha a character.  The second was the author going on what I can only assume was an opium-induced philosophical trip.  Seriously, you’re tootling along to the end of a truly remarkable story arc with death and love and societal upheaval and then WHAM here is an extra 140 pages of redundant, solipsistic, and inconclusive meanderings on freewill and power.  No idea why.

That's all folks!  See you next year.

Monday, January 12, 2015

Revive

This weekend I did some things that I hadn't done in a long time.  I took new people to frozen lakes above 9000 feet.  I cried until I hiccupped and gnawed a bunch of skin off my knuckles.  I sweated and pushed and fought through a routine until I saw stars and had to put my head between my knees.  I sang songs I barely remember and spent actual drum time in front of actual other people.  Oh, and I spent some real, billable time at work.

I have decided on a new year's resolution.  I want to incorporate some of the creative pastimes that used to mean so much to me into my now life.  I'm a grownup now or something, but I don't think I've killed Lark off entirely.

Monday, February 16, 2009

I eat books instead of breakfast

The BBC thinks most people will have only read 6
of the 100 books here. I'm kind of floored by that. I think I had to
read at least 6 of these suckers in high school.

Instructions:
1) Look at the list and put an 'X' after those you have read.
2) Add a '+' to the ones you LOVE.
3) Star (*) those you plan on reading.
4) Tally your total at the bottom.

1 Pride and Prejudice - Jane Austen X
2 The Lord of the Rings - JRR Tolkien X+
3 Jane Eyre - Charlotte Bronte *
4 Harry Potter series - JK Rowling X
5 To Kill a Mockingbird - Harper Lee X+
6 The Bible X
7 Wuthering Heights - Emily Bronte
8 Nineteen Eighty Four - George Orwell X
9 His Dark Materials - Philip Pullman (tried, but didn’t get into it)
10 Great Expectations - Charles Dickens X
11 Little Women - Louisa M Alcott X
12 Tess of the D’Urbervilles - Thomas Hardy X
13 Catch 22 - Joseph Heller *
14 Complete Works of Shakespeare (ok ok, not all of it)

15 Rebecca - Daphne Du Maurier
16 The Hobbit - JRR Tolkien X+
17 Birdsong - Sebastian Faulk
18 Catcher in the Rye - JD Salinger X
19 The Time Traveller’s Wife - Audrey Niffenegger
20 Middlemarch - George Eliot
21 Gone With The Wind - Margaret Mitchell
22 The Great Gatsby - F Scott Fitzgerald X+
23 Bleak House - Charles Dickens
24 War and Peace - Leo Tolstoy *
25 The Hitch Hiker’s Guide to the Galaxy - Douglas Adams X
26 Brideshead Revisited - Evelyn Waugh X+
27 Crime and Punishment - Fyodor Dostoyevsky X
28 Grapes of Wrath - John Steinbeck
29 Alice in Wonderland - Lewis Carroll X+
30 The Wind in the Willows - Kenneth Grahame X
31 Anna Karenina - Leo Tolstoy
32 David Copperfield - Charles Dickens
33 Chronicles of Narnia - CS Lewis X
34 Emma - Jane Austen
35 Persuasion - Jane Austen
36 The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe - CS Lewis X
37 The Kite Runner - Khaled Hosseini X (worst book ever)
38 Captain Corelli’s Mandolin - Louis De Bernieres
39 Memoirs of a Geisha - Arthur Golden
40 Winnie the Pooh - AA Milne X
41 Animal Farm - George Orwell *
42 The Da Vinci Code - Dan Brown X
43 One Hundred Years of Solitude - Gabriel Garcia Marquez X+

44 A Prayer for Owen Meaney - John Irving X (I really loved it until I
talked with somebody who violently hated it… and made really valid
points)
45 The Woman in White - Wilkie Collins
46 Anne of Green Gables - LM Montgomery X (ugh)
47 Far From The Madding Crowd - Thomas Hardy
48 The Handmaid’s Tale - Margaret Atwood X
49 Lord of the Flies - William Golding X+
50 Atonement - Ian McEwan
51 Life of Pi - Yann Martel *
52 Dune - Frank Herbert X+
53 Cold Comfort Farm - Stella Gibbons (… this was a book?)
54 Sense and Sensibility - Jane Austen

55 A Suitable Boy - Vikram Seth
56 The Shadow of the Wind - Carlos Ruiz Zafon
57 A Tale Of Two Cities - Charles Dickens X
58 Brave New World - Aldous Huxley X
59 The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time - Mark Haddon
60 Love In The Time Of Cholera - Gabriel Garcia Marquez * (I love everything else I've read, so time to get on it)
61 Of Mice and Men - John Steinbeck X
62 Lolita - Vladimir Nabokov X
63 The Secret History - Donna Tartt
64 The Lovely Bones - Alice Sebold
65 Count of Monte Cristo - Alexandre Dumas X (in FRENCH bitches!)
66 On The Road - Jack Kerouac X (10 pages left…)
67 Jude the Obscure - Thomas Hardy
68 Bridget Jones’s Diary - Helen Fielding X
69 Midnight’s Children - Salman Rushdie
70 Moby Dick - Herman Melville X
71 Oliver Twist - Charles Dickens X
72 Dracula - Bram Stoker X
73 The Secret Garden - Frances Hodgson Burnett X+ (I have reasons)
74 Notes From A Small Island - Bill Bryson X
75 Ulysses - James Joyce
76 The Bell Jar - Sylvia Plath
77 Swallows and Amazons - Arthur Ransome
78 Germinal - Emile Zola
79 Vanity Fair - William Makepeace Thackeray
80 Possession - AS Byatt
81 A Christmas Carol - Charles Dickens X
82 Cloud Atlas - David Mitchell
83 The Color Purple - Alice Walker X
84 The Remains of the Day - Kazuo Ishiguro (I’ve read some of his other ones…)
85 Madame Bovary - Gustave Flaubert
86 A Fine Balance - Rohinton Mistry
87 Charlotte’s Web - EB White X
88 The Five People You Meet In Heaven - Mitch Alborn
89 Adventures of Sherlock Holmes - Sir Arthur Conan Doyle X
90 The Faraway Tree Collection - Enid Blyton
91 Heart of Darkness - Joseph Conrad X
92 The Little Prince - Antoine De Saint-Exupery X+
93 The Wasp Factory - Iain Banks
94 Watership Down - Richard Adams X+
95 A Confederacy of Dunces - John Kennedy Toole
96 A Town Like Alice - Nevil Shute
97 The Three Musketeers - Alexandre Dumas X+ (French)
98 Hamlet - William Shakespeare X+ (again with the repetition, BBC)
99 Charlie and the Chocolate Factory - Roald Dahl X
100 Les Miserables - Victor Hugo X

51!
And two of those were in French! Take that, BBC! Oh and I didn't
count the ones I'm planning on because things like "Jane Eyre" have
been on that list for the last 4 years. So if you respond... don't
cound the *s.
If you want to see my 2008 booklist and slam me for reading shit like "The Terrorist" or "The Kite Runner," go here: http://myspace.com/ariadnni

Monday, August 18, 2008

I want to be Belgian

Which brings me to the next two check-marks on my facebook map.
When I got back from Tunis, Meagan was already in Paris waiting for me. She and I met a couple years ago on the internet on a soccer forum. About a month later, I drove up to Quincy, MA and picked her up. Instead of driving her into the woods and killing her with an axe, I took her to a Revs game. We did that all season. And now, a couple years later, we're traveling Europe together. Good thing I didn't own an axe back then!
After a couple of days in Paris, we hopped a train to Brussels. If I'd known how close it was, I'd have gone for a lunch before now. I could! It's less than an hour on the TGV and the city is little and easy to navigate. It's also suddenly one of my favorites ever visited. "Don't try to be cool here," warned a handy text box on the map our hostel supplied. "People are polite and won't smirk at your low-riders or your swagger, but they're having a good laugh at your expense on the inside."
The ideal in Brussels is to be chill.
I think a lot of people say that, but this is the first time I've really seen a whole city, a whole people show that off. Evidence is everywhere. Meagan and I can't so much as stop and look at a street sign without somebody stopping to offer directions in their friendly Belgian accents, but we see many people strolling at a leisurely pace down streets only to stop at the intersection, turn around, and stroll back in the direction they'd come as if they're thinking, "Right well, enough of that. How about another beer?"
Which brings me to the fact that the Belgians are HUGE foodies. It seems to be the only thing besides soccer that they are avidly concerned about, and everything from the mussels in vegetable broth that one eats standing at outdoor bars in pretty squares before dinner to the fries, which are generally accepted as the best in the world, are prepared with meticulous care.
Meagan and I didn't really notice because we were too full of beer.
Beer is everywhere and it is amazing. We met up with a group of Belgian hashers at the Delerium Bar, which has a beer menu with over 2,000 choices. I'm not making this up. Their menu looked like a phone book. EZ Over, their GM, explained that it was a favorite bar for them because the Brussels hashers have a degree-program based on the number of beers tasted. Two others, a really cute couple, smiled proudly and admitted they'd just gotten their Masters' in May.
This made reason 902 I want to live in Brussels for a while.
The ever-helpful and friendly Brussels hashers -- Belgians through and through -- were perfectly cheerful about helping Meagan and me get home after beer number 9, when I would have been perfectly happy sleeping in, say, a nearby pond.
Except for a very nice hotel de ville, Brussels doesn't really have must-see tourist landmarks per se. No gotheic cathedrals or ancient structures. Apparently in their typical Belgian "meh, whatever" attitude, Brussels inhabitants decked a number of nice buildings in the 70's because they were, you know, in the way or something. It's not uncommon to see neat art-nouveau houses next to dingy convenience stores here. Belgians really don't care if things are ugly, just like they don't care if people are stylin'. The result isn't graffiti and litter, it's little street markets everywhere and a complete lack of zoning. I rather like it.
Brussels also doesn't have much by way of art or museums, so we spent most of our days (pre-beer) walking and enjoying what the city is famous for... chocolate. I know you've had good chocolate. Godiva or Ghirardelli or Leonidas or Lark-you-don't-understand-there's-this-place- in-my-home-town-and-they-make-it-from-scratch-and-it-is-so-good, and I am telling you right now that you've never had chocolate if you've never been to Belgium.
Have I mentioned you should go to Belgium? I'm going back as soon as I can. This time I want to see Brugge. And buy more beer.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Lifeplan and an adventure in Tunisia

My God am I overdue for an update. If you only knew...

Relaxing with a bottle of wine from the hotel bar and sunburned a bit from Tunisian sun, I report! I suppose my emails of late have given an impression that these few months of my epistolary silence have been full of soul-searching and important decisions. First of all, I should say that this is FALSE. My summer job thus far has been to run a youth hostel, and time spent on enabling my future self to, you know, eat... has been squeezed in between piracy, laundry, and the occasional museum visit. 20 visitors since the end of May. That's a lot of people. More importantly, that's a lot of laundry. You know, when its wrapped in a bedsheet, carrying thirty pounds of your sodden clothes down the street to the dryer isn't as hard as you'd think.

So around a month ago I left from my last day of work. The computer Cheniere gave me tucked under my arm, I took the bus home, made myself a stiff G&T and sat down to consider my options. Among other things, I knew at that time : a) I wasn't ready to leave Paris and its blessedly cheap wine b) Cheniere had screwed up royally in my whole visa process c) no company in France was going to hire me without the visa and d) pillows are cheap at IKEA. So I decided that I'd focus on the latter point – the onslaught of visitors. In free time, I could brush up the resume, send some emails and buy plane tickets. ...Because I would never forgive myself for living in France on salary with all the budget airlines and not getting to a couple key countries. I've wanted to go to North Africa since I started taking French in middle school, and the Czech Republic with its family ties, extremely attractive soccer team and infamous nightclubs also beckoned.

So, to sum up, I have hosted ChristinaMattJimmySaraKaraJordanJonathanBlancheWoozySplinterEyeAliRebeccaPatrickPhilMagdaAlecandMeagan this summer. To recap? Heck, the fall would arrive before I finished the stories. Asleep in my twin-sized guest bed amongst IKEA's finest pillows have been a total anywhere between 1-6 depending on what movie is playing on Cheniere's finest computer screen facing us. But we didn't spend most evenings in front of a movie. No, these were more the bottle (or three) and music (or not) on the town kinds of guests. Adventures included gladiator afternoons at the Roman arena on my street, evenings singing on the Seine, many Your Mom jokes, cultural expeditions to the museums, chest thumping competitions (don't ask), less cultural expeditions to the discount wine rack at Champion, ever popular fondue, a couple of HHH adventures including a NAMING, and this one time (NEVER again) when I took Jonathan and Harry to the Egyptian exhibit at the Louvre and they attempted to use what they'd learned from Brown University's infamous EG 101 to decipher everything in the goddamn exhibit. Blanche and I finally dragged them out, but before we did, they did manage to find something that seemed to say, “Cannon's Mom.” I'm not making this up. (I also learned over the course of the visit that SplinterEye's “real” name is Harry. Who knew?)*


>>>

Ok, so I started this email a week ago. It's pretty blathery, so I'll recap. I'm going to stay in France until roughly next spring, living off of my severance package and a bartending gig and spending whatever is left over traveling. This means that you, faithful Life Distribution List, are probably only going to get the odd travel blog or maybe a “Hey I got a job!” kind of an email. If you want off the list, now's your chance. I won't be offended.

If you are looking for a good place to stop reading, this is it. The rest is only BRILLIANT and WITTY and INSIGHTFUL commentary about INTERESTING and EXOTIC locations.

Tunisia

The first thing that you notice about Tunisia is that it is hot. Like, the air-conditioned airplane touches down and you think, “Oh man it's gonna suck when they open that door” kind of hot. Almost all of Tunisia is a massive Death-by-August, Lawrence of Arabia kind of desert, except for the only part of the country that I actually saw. Despite the air, which is clearly 110° dry desert air, grass and tress and lush lawns and botanical gardens all grow happily along a green coast-line in complete defiance, as far as I can tell, of all known laws of climate and botany.

As far as the people, warmth is something different entirely. Everyone at my hotel and the majority of the people I buy water bottles from are terse and rude to me. This is hard for me to stomach because a) I hate it when people don't like me and really try to avoid that, and b) I am buying a lot of water bottles. I carry giant, awkward 2 litre things around with me everywhere and finish them within an hour and have to go buy another. It is SO hot and so dry that I go for stretches of like 36 hours without having to pee. Which is very weird for me. My cab-driver, on the other hand, is so talkative and eager to show and share Tunisia, that I hire him to show me around the old city and even let him rip me off a bit when he takes me to the airport. (That was an “on the other hand” to the rude Tunisians, not that bit about bathrooms.) Najla's family too is gracious and friendly almost to a fault as I try to sneak into Najla's pocket when she's not looking, the 11 dinars they bartered down for a soccer jersey I wanted.

I spent a day and a half with Team Jamoussi, wandering through covered medinas where Mariam helped me act more Arabic so that I'd stop screwing up their bartering abilities, through smaller cities and towns around Tunis with their ornate bright blue doors, blinding against the whitewash of the walls, and through the ruins of old Carthage.

Guide: Here are some Phoenician ruins. Then the Romans destroyed them. Here are some Roman ruins. Then they were destroyed. Here are Byzantine ruins. Then they were destroyed. And there are the Tunisian houses!

Lucy: (to Anouar) So be VERY careful.

This left me a couple days to tool around by myself, which is VERY STRONGLY RECOMMENDED AGAINST IN CAPITAL LETTERS AND MAYBE EVEN AN ITALLICS by my guidebook. It's not dangerous, exactly, the guidebook hastens to add, just... there aren't many women who walk by themselves here, and men are much more forward in North Africa.

I raise an eyebrow. “Look, guidebook,” I say, “I live in Paris. I've been clubbing in ROME for Chrissakes. I can handle forward guys.”

Guidebook is offended and hides under a table so that I will not be able to find him the next day and will almost certainly get lost without his handy map.

Guidebook also recommends that I dress conservatively, but since it is 110°, jeans would mean death, so it's big, baggy calf-length pants and a black zip-up shirt with the sleeves cut off but that still covers my shoulders. Men ARE forward, but they aren't gross, and it's kind of fun to hear them guess where I'm from if I don't respond when they speak French to me. Based on my tally, I look Portuguese more than anything else. Who knew? Rob, I think, will get a kick out of this.

Women do not talk to me, but they smile and look at me with great curiosity as I tramp by in my dykie outfits, lugging my awkward water bottle and clearly very lost. Not too many women wear the head-scarf in Tunis – 30% maybe? That's more than it used to be, according to Najla because it's currently... in style.

I'd buy it. As I walked down to my hotel one night from a festival in Sidi-Bou Saīd, I passed two girls in black skirt-top outfits. One was wearing a bright yellow hijab that matched perfectly the collar on her tank-top, the cuff on her skirt, and her heels. The other girl had the same outfit in red. To my eye, it made them look a little like crayons, but not necessarily in an unsexy way... which I thought was the whole point.

Mum was really curious about the food when we spoke, and I'm sure I made up something, but the truth is that I only ate one “Tunisian” meal while there. Mariam explained to me that everyone in Tunis looses weight during the summer because on days where 120° isn't uncommon, the only thing you can imagine stomaching is fruit, ice cream, and ohmygodIneedanotherwaterbottle. This isn't necessarily bad as the fruit is AMAZING. I bought a peach and a bag of figs from a vendor in an orchard, and that fruit was so good that if it game me worms, I'd still call it worth it.

I say “if” because as I finish this, I am currently on a train from Amsterdam back to Paris, and I've had stomach problems since we got to Belgium 5 days ago...

*Grown-ups and others unfamiliar with my stint as a pirate in college, most of us go by our pirate-names and don't really learn until later what our compatriot's real names are. This drives my less nerdy friends crazy. “Your name,” they yell at my answering machine, “is LUCY! Get a life! Get a job!” **

** Ok, most of the time that last bit is somebody else entirely leaving me voicemails.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Part 4: Just That, Said the Fox

First off, a big ol' hallo to all YOU new folks on the mailing list! To you and to people like Grandma (hi Grandma!), here's some forewarning : I'm irreverent and use bad words in this email. But I remain readable! Evan Smith, I'm going to make fun of you in this edition just 'cuz I know you won't read it! Ha ha!
Anyway... Jeeeeeez, months, Walker. It's been MONTHS since we last heard from you! "We thought you were dead, killed in a cage fight in Bangkok!" cry the pessimists among you. "We figured you'd run away with a heart-shatteringly beautiful gypsy with big earrings and could now be found dancing under the shadow of Notre Dame with a goat named Jezebel!" cry the optimists. (All gypsies should own a goat, don't you think? It's bad enough that in France they ruin the bonfire and swirly skirt image by hawking and stealing and generally being a real pain anywhere there's a hope at ripping off a tourist in this city. They should at least own a goat.) No I'm very much alive, having survived Thailand, and I'm still swearing under my breath at the stinking goatless gypsies... and do apologize for my long absence. Credit it to the elephant in the room.
"What is with the animal metaphors?" you hapless mailing distribution list must be wondering. But honestly, isn't that a great idiom in the English language? The Elephant in the Room. The unspeakable subject that is IMPOSSIBLE to ignore. "Elephant in the Room" would be a great name for an emo band. Anyway, there was this unfortunate elephant in the room for ME of late. i could send around the email that was unbearably funny in which i whined about all the blisters I'm getting from running about with beer in my shoes or i could wax poetic about the impossibly beautiful rainbowed reflections of the royal palace in Thailand upon the strange whitewash of the army barracks next door. but the truth is, i've got a lot on my mind that would be really weird to talk around, and as it was, i wasn't allowed to talk about it. But now i am! guess what?! i'm losing my job!
the part of me that is a little too proud hastens to add that they're not firing ME exactly. they're closing the Paris office, and there is no way in hell this little pirate is going back to Houston. i don't feel like discussing the blood-soaked details, but basically my company found itself in a situation that many noted economists and high-ranking energy analysts have described as, "royally fucked." a lot of stuff had to go, and that, unfortunately, included my bureau. there are upsides. i get a decent severance package, and this whole thing happened just in time for me to actually get my visa. so while i may get deported after all, that won't happen until one year from April 23. i have decent contacts and am more or less bilingual, so my job options seem... well, there's a reason to be optimistic. the downsides are obvious. i WOULD have really liked my job. also, in the subsequent hullabaloo in the Paris office, everyone has been stressed, short, and quick to stab each other in the back. i spent some time absolutely convinced that i was going to be completely screwed over (again!) by hr, receiving neither the somewhat comforting severance package of American employees nor the medical coverage and, you know, food and stuff that the French employees will get from the government. some of this has been resolved. what's left is a REALLY nasty aftertaste of corporate America. i knew i should have been a caveman.

right, enough of that. there are fun things too. i have gotten really into hashing. (new folks, look up the Hash House Harriers on wikipedia. meanwhile, a quick explanation : a social running group that involves tromping around in the woods, lots of yelling, and even more alcohol.) i am running at least one and often two hashes a week now. i hared my first one last weekend and went through the naming ceremony two weeks ago. this requires kneeling in the middle of a circle while the r.a. solemnly pronounces you by your new, incredibly embarrassing hash name while simultaneously pouring flour over your head. then everybody else sings a song and pours beer on you. the result is that you smell like a bakery, get really weird looks on the train back home and find yourself picking dough out of your hair up to 5 days later. and no, i will not tell you my hash name. you'll just have to WAIT and learn it when you go on a run with me. unless you are a close family member in which case, you will simply never know. get used to it.

the summer is rapidly approaching and with it come enough visitors to make me invest in a box-spring and stock my fridge with things besides mustard, vodka, and club soda nicked from my office. (this actually is all i have in my fridge right now. i would take a picture to prove it, but my camera is out of batteries.) IF you are coming to visit but have still not given me dates, i need them soon. i'm not pointing fingers unless your name starts with R and ends with Ebecca El-Saleh. [Shannon Bedo, you're not off the hook either.] my calendar follows at the end of this email.

i have an adorable apartment in the Latin Quarter. i even have the ability for a landline, but since i don't have a telephone yet, i'm not going to give you the number. for now, my new address is : 33 rue Monge/Paris 75005/France. my apartment is more or less empty of the 8 billion cardboard boxes it had about 10 days ago and i'm intent on making it mine. i have put things on the walls, and it now has things as interesting and diverse as a huge hovering ufo-looking floorlamp that nearly killed me trying to get it from ikea to the 5th on the metro, a Chelsea towel set, and a freezer that reaches temperatures at which vodka actually freezes. i'm not making this up. i didn't even know that was possible. still need to buy : a telephone, fans for upcoming hot summer months without air conditionin, food.

if you miss me like mad, it's probably a good idea to send me love tomorrow before 10 pm. tomorrow, as you are doubtless aware, Chelsea takes on Manchester United in the Champions League finals. i intend to be loud, clad in blue, and rather obnoxious. if we win, i may be killed by rabid English hooligans. if we lose, i may have to kill myself. or go sulk for the subsequent couple YEARS. go play tag with a bullet train, Christiano Ronaldo, you whiner.

Love, Take Care, and On On!,

Lucy/Lark/Alouette/----

p.s. as PROMISED : when Evan blows his nose, i am constantly reminded of the cannon fire in the last 2 minutes of the 1812 Overture.

p.p.s. my schedule :
May 23 - June 1 : Lucy to RI for Commencement and Related Insanity
June 5 - 9 : She volunteers to put up 2 Jabberwoks as they travel through Paris on some official a-capella tour of wussy. Also of Europe. The Jabberwoks are an all-male fancy-shmancy a-capella group from Brown. We pirates used to use them for cannon fodder. They will never know what hit them.
June 14 - 17 : Jake visits from England! (June 16 : Fraternity party in Lucy's apartment)
End June : Tootles, Cheniere. Have a nice life.
June 21 - 27 : She goes to California to be with her family! And be in the Redwoods! Yay!
June 27-29 : Her friends get married and she and Pat get scared and thereby drunk! Yay!
July : Jonathan. Also, unemployed. There are not words enough.
Early July : Blanche and Alianza and Woozy and Lark and Cannon and maybe even Blackheart and Karlotta live in one apartment. This means a lot of hot, blond potentially single pirateness sharing a bed. I am, of course, talking about Woozy.
Either late July or Early August : She [and possibly J] jet off to Tunisia to bother Najla. Hi Najla!
August 4ish - 10ish : Alec! Insanity Ensues!
September sometime or maybe October : Daphne will stay in exchange for "washing your floor." Whatever that means!

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the kind of summer I am expecting.

p.p.p.s. i am going to backlog old distributions on blogspot : http://corsaireaparis.blogspot.com . you new folks can find my past adventures there. you old folks can stop asking me for that funny story where i told off the Parisian rugby fan.

p.p.p.p.s. I hope Butterbur sends this probptly. A worthy man, but his memory is like a lumber-room : thing wanted always buried. If he forgets, I shall roast him. (Kudos to those of you who get the reference. Without google.)